Checking a car before buying

When you arrive at your viewing, take a look around the automobile before you ring the doorbell. This will give you a chance to look at it without being distracted by the seller.
The golden rule is - never view a automobile in the dark or in the rain, as weather can hide a multitude of sins. You'll never spot scratches, dents or rust in the rain, & a lack of light means plenty of other potential problems will go unnoticed.
• First, take a walk around the automobile & take it all in. Unless you have been told otherwise, the automobile should be in a driveable state.
Outside
• You ought to always start the automobile with a chilled engine, as this is when it is easiest to spot beginning problems or excessive smoke. Place a hand on the bonnet - if it is warm, it is been run recently, so let it cold for a few hours. If need be, come back later.
• Let the seller show you the automobile, but don't let them distract you from carrying out your own checks.
• The wheels should sit neatly in the wheel arches, equally on both sides.
• Crouch down in front of each front wheel & look along the length of the automobile. Both front wheels should be directly in front of the rear – if they are not, it could mean the automobile has been in a crash with a slightly twisted chassis. This is known as crabbing.
• Look carefully at each panel for ripples or overspray – where excess paint has flecked onto other trim, such as window seals or bumpers.
• Check the gaps between the panels are equal. Run your finger along each to feel if the gap is bigger at three finish than the other. Uneven panel gaps occur if a automobile has been in a crash, or if panels have been refitted badly.
• The maximum tread depth is 1.6mm for the whole way around the tyre. Use a tread depth gauge to see how much is left – the more, the better.
• Look closely at each tyre – including the spare. Watch for uneven wear, which could mean suspension destroy, nicks & gouges. Tyres are pricey, so if they need replacing, use this as a bargaining tool.
• Most shunts are minor, low-speed crashes, but you ought to take extra steps to be sure there are not any more serious problems.
• Check under the automobile, at the front & back, under the bonnet & under the carpet in the boot for signs of crash destroy. Panels should be flat, & free from signs of welding or patching up – if they are not, it is probably had a shunt.
For more information on checking your tyre pressure, read our money-saving tip.
• Obviously rust is a bad sign, so keep your eye out all the time, around the wheel arches where moisture, grime & winter road salt can increase the speed of deterioration.
Inside

• Look around the cabin – a 50,000 mile automobile should not have a worn or sagging stool or a steering wheel, gearknob or pedal covers which have been worn by plenty of use.
There's plenty of things to check inside, as well, most of which can be a lovely indication of mileage & the amount of care & attention it is had lavished on it.
• Look closely at the dashboard binnacle (the bit which houses the speedometer & other dials). If the automobile has an older, mechanical-style milometer which turns as you drive, make sure all the barrels are aligned correctly – turning these back is the oldest trick in the book. If there's fingerprints in there, ask why – there could be an honest explanation.
• Make sure all the seatbelts work – they could indicate a previous crash or general neglect. They are a legal requirement – if the automobile is being sold with a new MOT certificate, alarm bells should be ringing as these should have been checked.
• This is harder to check on more modern models which have electronic milometers – the miles can be turned back basically by connecting a laptop & entering a new mileage.
• Either way, make sure the mileage tallies with elderly MOT certificates & service history.
• Don’t be quick to reject a automobile – it can be tricky to bolt a dash back together after changing a blown bulb in the device panel.
• Make sure all the dashboard & steering column panels are bolted on correctly – they could point to a clocked automobile, or three which has been stolen, if there's glass fragments on the floor.
• Make sure all the switches work – including the heater or air-con - & check the front seats move about properly.
• Locate the Vehicle Identification Number (VIN). You'll find this riveted in the engine bay. There's few reasons why this should have been removed, so be suspicious if there's signs of tampering, you could be looking at a clone – a stolen automobile given the identity of a write-off. Visit our safety & security centre for more information.
• Modern cars also have the VIN recorded at the base of the windscreen.
• The VIN number will also be stamped in the floor beside the driver or passenger stool. A clone will have another number welded on, & are usually easy to swap.

• Check all the numbers match the logbook & your Automobile History Check documents – if they don't, walk away.
Under the bonnet
Next check under the bonnet – any problems you miss here could cost you a packet, so be thorough. Read our basic automobile checks page more for details on how to do this.
• Check for signs of oil leaks around the top of the engine, but don’t forget to check underneath as this will be where it is most obvious. Road grime can stick to oil, making it even more noticeable.
• Remove the dipstick, wipe it with a cloth & replace for a couple of seconds. Pull it out again & look at the amount of oil – it should be near the top; if not, the owner hasn’t been looking after it.
• Look around the oil filler cap for a white mayonnaise-like substance - this is an indication of a damaged head gasket which can be pricey to put right.
• The oil should be a golden colour – sludgy black oil is a sign the engine could be damaged.